092809 Last Post

092809 Last Post

Location: Leon , Spain

Summary:
miles covered -many
secret decoder ring recovered -check
nail clippers -check
jeans/pants -still working on it. may have to embrace not meeting pants goal till USA. (I hate to loose! :( )
scarf -check
floss -check
fresh breath goal -check (two days 2 pieces of Dentyne Ice. I am so good!)
consumption of wine(exponential increase) -check
no time spent in spanish prison (so far) -check
pretzel sticks -working on the last bit now. crumbs are flying everywhere.
swine flu -negative


I am in Leon (finally made it after staying the night in Arcahueja) and have no idea when I will see another computer after this morning.

In Arcahueja, I meet an Austria dude named Norbert who is an IT guy from Viena and who also teaches yoga. We shared dinner and excellent conversation (no asanas perfomed during the meal). The next day he left first in the dark and I followed at 7:00 AM or so. I wanted to leave the Camino walking in solitude the same as I had started some 14 days ago. The sky was magnificent with stars again as was the view of Leon from the surrounding hills as I decended into the city. In Leon I checked out the Cathedral which is truly awe inspiring. I also meet Mickey Mouse (who made me smile) and was in the square in front of the Cathedral making balloons. I was tempting to ask for a balloon pony hat to wear but resisted the temptation (no, just messing). That day and night I meet up with many lost friends from the previous days and a large group of us had dinner where I was the only one who could not understand french. The food was lame but the company and bottles of wine were great. It was a wonderful meal. There are so many things to write but so little time. (Such is life.) Right now, I need to find a way to Madrid with the money I have left in my wallet (hoping I do not have to beg too much). (Can always thumb, right.)

So to totally mess with my readers I will change the tone to a serious one (bam, just like that).

1. I hope all those who read my blog enjoyed it and were able to grasp my sarcastic tone. When I write, things just seem to come out. Additionally, I hope I did not offend anyone´s sensibilities or violate too many rules of grammar, spelling, punctuation, etc. Thank you very much for reading it and posting comments. It really has meant a lot to me.

2. So why do people do the Camino? I guess there are many reasons. In my case I have a long story and it is not my intention to bore anyone with it in this blog (or ever). If anyone has any questions about walking the Camino, please feel free to buy me a coffee at the Expresso Bueno and I will answer them as best I can. I would be happy to lend or even give any books to anyone who has questions on the subject.

3. It is impossible when walking along the Camino not to take time and consider one´s blessings. When I consider this I am truly humbled and probably not deserving of such wonderful family and friends. I promise to work hard and not to screw things up. You are always in my thoughts and prayers.

4. Although, I have consumed all manner of alcoholic beverages from the airplane to now and will till I depart (yo, I am on a roll). I have not at any time been inebriated (crazy, huh) or even close to tipsy. (I will need to work harder at this (I have my pride you know). I will make no promises going forward. Just kidding. ;) ) They plane ride should be interesting. (Who´s the naughtiest guy on this plane?)

5. No animals (except some flies -pre Ahimsa policy.), pilgrims, or historically significant structures were permanently damaged in the writing of this blog. (Well, I can never be totally sure about this or serious for that matter. Cut me some slack, yo!)

Lastly, I had a great time in Spain, but all good things must come to an end. If all goes well and they let me back in the country (please) I should be in Boston on Wednesday.

Please watch for my next blog: FieldOfMagaritas2010. (Appearing soon on an internet near you.)


-paul

092509 Day Twelve

Location: Arcahueja, right before Leon.
Date: 09/26/09, 12:59 PM

Supplies:
8 pieces of Dentyne Ice -pressure is on. may have to start recycling gum. 2 days per piece. I can do it.
0 floss -this may interfer with fresh breath goal. need to replenish asap.
still no oxicotin
16 pretzel sticks
1 topical antibiotic
1 paper tape
31 small spoons -don´t ask
1 nail clippers (goal)
0 jeans (goal) -please consider this to be official pants replacement.
0 scarf (goal)
2 brusied peaches
113 number of flies not killed due to new adoption of Ahimsa policy.
2 postcards mailed to Abigail and Xavier. Just as I promised Abigail!
89 pounds of ham consumed so far
23 loaves of bread consumed so far. (They are bread crazy here. Never heard of atkins, huh?)
1 ipod -almost out of power. (Still too many Taylor Swift songs. Although,... one is kinda catchy (I know, so lame). Believe it or not I am hearing the catchy song on the radio here in Espana. Heard it twice so far. Or maybe its just the brain damage talking. Go figure.)
1 camera -battery almost dead, 823 pictures.

Awoke in Sahagun at 6:30 AM or so after having scarf dream and making doctor´s apointment the night before with Abigail. Crusied by plaza mayor and found a place for coffee. Had coffee and headed out of town. The morning was cool and the path was lined with small trees that had leaves that were similar to maple leaves but obviously were not. Out of Sahagun walked with Dora for a bit. Here wheel (ankle) was hurting her. My feet were still sore, stiff, but healing. We then meet another dude from Hungry and they had a nice conversation. I wanting to walk alone for a while and took full advantage pulling ahead to El Burgo Ranero. On the way I called Abigail and Xavier only to find out that Abigail is now answering the phone like it´s a veterinarian´s office. (She is adorable. Where does she get this imagination?) I spoke with Abigail and Xavier for a while and made an appointment for my dog, next Thursday nail clipping. I then reached El Burgo Ranero and took a rest at the cross right at the entrance of the town. at this time the sun was blazing and Spain was in full desert mode. While resting I managed to both watch and capture on film another small lizard that lived in the stones. I chilled out in El Burgo Ranero for an hour or two an then (in order to ensure that I would make Leon by Sunday) shared a cab to Mansilla del las Mullas with some other pilgrims. From here on out I will have 2 days of walking and I will be in Leon. Even though I have taken a bus and cab I will still have walked at least 6.0 kilometers every day since I arrived in Spain (and still no oxicotin, rats). We arrived in Mansilla de las Mullas which is a walled city and quickly found the albergue. That night I had a nice dinner that actually had a vegtable, a salad (no, impossible, yes possible). It was iceberg (lame). I also shared two bottles of wine with the pligrims at my table (they joined me once they spotted me). (Basically, I am the coolest pilgrim in country. Get a hold of yourself. Whatever dude.) After dinner we had extensive discussion about the American holiday of Thanksgiving, American´s appreciation for sweet deserts, and Maple syrup and pancakes. I was clear to point out that the following:

-Thanksgiving is awesome (they think this is my favorite word). Turkey American football pumpkin pie. What´s not to love?

-Flan is ok but it´s no Brownie Sundae. (Take that, beotch.)

-A crepe is not a pancake. It supposed to be heavy and filling. After you eat a pancake smothered with VT Maple syrup your supposed to go hunt down a critter, shovel a driveway full of snow, or go back to bed to sleep off a hangover. (You know, serious business. A crepe is not going to help you with this.)

After the wine and scoring big points in the great pancake debate I went back to the albergue to go to bed. I brushed my teeth, washed up, and went to bed. Tomorrow I head to Arcahueja, one stop before Leon.

092409 Day Eleven

Location: Mansilla de las Mullas, Spain, Next to some serioulsy heavy smoker old dude. (I need a bath now. Yuck!) And listening to a very cheesy Spanish Soap Opera. No te quieres!!! Nunca!!, I never loved you, Never!, Whoa!)

Date: 09/25/09, 4:33 PM

Ok, I awoke in Villasirga to the sound of pilgrims exiting. I was the last to leave. (Later dudes. What no goodbye?) I quickly got ready and was ultra psyched to learn that there was free breakfast. I grab some bread smothered it with margarine (haven´t they learned maragarine can kill you. Butter is the way to go dude!) and jam. Created a crazy cup of coffee with chocolate powder, and a scoop of some other unfamilair powder. It wasn´t crack. Jammed it all in my head, packed my stuff, and went downstairs. I took a moment to get a picture of Darth (Gunner) and his wife and he then took my arm anded pointed out the different stars in the sky. (And, I thought I was touch-feely.) I resisted the urge to have him say ¨Luke I am your father¨one more time and bid them both a very fond farewell. (They were really cool folks.) I walked to Carrion de los Condes as fast as I could and counted my blessings as I went. I also had some time to consider some of the great mysteries of life. Like why do they call it a ¨White Sale¨ its not all white? Or why do we say ¨pair of pants¨? You can´t buy a single pant? Or why does my brain think of such shallow silly things (Please no comments on this point)? At any rate the morning was cool and the sky was a rich blue as I reached Carrion de los Condes and found a panderia/bar. I stuffed myself on a pastery called pasas y nunces, drank coffee, and made a post to the blog. In the throws of a caffine and sugar rush I stepped outside considering my next options. It was comforting to find out that the sun was now blazing as hot as ever (not). In what can only be called divine intervention (which appears to occur on a daily basis with me as of late) I spied two pilgrims across the street. One of them I recognized. It was Dora (the explorer) from Hungry. I navigated the busy street to meet them and say hi. Dora told me that we could take the bus to Sahagun from here. This was perfect. That would allow me to catch-up a bit and make Leon by Sunday or Monday. I was totally down with that. Bought my ticket killed some time (transalation had a beer) and waited for the bus. Bus was late, but no matter, I savored the divine intervention and enjoyed the ride. On the bus meet another American, Jonathon who was born in concord, NH. During the bus ride I fully embraced the new policy of Ahimsa and resisted the urge to kill the flies that were trying to torment me. We arrived in Sahagun found a cafe in a beautifully shaded park that sat at an odd corner and was shaped as a long thin triangle. I then had a beer and tried a local spirit called ärooho (or something like that). The spirit is served chilled and is only indiginous to this region of Spain. (Yeah, because it would explode if it ever got to room temperature or if one tried to transport it. My tongue is still numb.) I then decide to have a more repectable drink a gin and tonic (much better, more civilized). Went to the albergue picked a bed, explored town, found the plaza mayor, ate an awesome meal, made post to blog, and then went back out for a coffe and bought some grapes. While drinking coffe at the same cafe as earlier in the day I encountered some very elderly woman who said hi and wished me well on the Camino (they wanted my digits). I then went back to the albergue washed up, laid in bed, and called Abigail and Xavier. To my surprised the voice that answered the phone (a young 9 year old girl) said that I had reached a doctor´s office and wanted to know I wanted to make an appointment. I quickly asked for one next Wednesday told her to tell her brother I said hi and that I missed them both and would see them soon. I went to bed and had a dream about having to by a scarf (adding this to the list, Yo). The next day I walked to El Bergo Ranero.

092309 Day Ten

Location: Sahagun, Castilla y Leon, Spain
Date: 092409, 6:33 Pm


Supplies:
9 pieces of Dentyne Ice -appears to attract tiny sand flies. (Man, that really needs to be on the label.)
still no oxicotin
22 pretzel sticks -appear to be missing a pretzel stick (Rats!! Darn ninja!)
1 very mush pastry
1 topical antibiotic
1 paper tape
1 old plain yogurt
35 small spoons -don´t ask
1 nail clippers (goal)
0 jeans (goal)

I left Itero de la Vega after waking at 6:30 AM and not being able to sleep because of some noisy old Italian dudes. Again I was lucky enough to follow the stars. I followed Orion´s arrow tip westward into the hot dry plains of Spain. Question, why do they take a siesta in Spain? Answer, because during this time of the day Spain becomes the a freakin hot dry, shadesless, desert (I am talking surface of the sun hot, yo). I had orginally planned to make today another short day, however, in a fit of madness (probably due to the sun) or arrogance I decided to try to go longer. I ended up going 28 kilometers. The last 8 were in the hot blazing sun. I was fortunate to find a hippie bar in the middle where I could get water (I had run out) and a cerveza(beer). In the heat everything looks closer than it is. My crooked legs have never walked such a straight line in my life as when I walked the last 4.2 kilometers to Villasirga. I walked into town and went straight to the albergue. I reached the albergue to find out that I had been fortunate enough to take the very last bed, even though at the last minute I had been passed by 3 bikers who must have made a wrong turn because they were shut out. (Yeah buddy!) The man running the albergue along with his wife was Gunner from Cologne Germany. He was very nice and talked like Darth Vader. (He really did. I tried to get him to Luke I am your father but had not luck. No, I didn´t.) He was a very helpful dude who answered many questions I had regarding bus and train travel. He and his wife were very kind people. They really made me feel welcome. At this point in the journey my total focus is getting to Madrid on time. If I get stuck in a remote place in the countryside I may not be able to get back to Madrid in time to make my flight. I tried to nap but couldn´t (My brain was still basically on fire from the death march in the desert. So what´s better to put out a fire than the local watering hole across the way -10 meters from the front door of the albergue. ) I had a beer and bought 3 for some other pilgrims who came crawling in, Carlos from Texas, Wagner from Brazil, and some other gal from Estrella Spain who gave me 2 cookies. I went back in and tried to sleep. Failing at this again I went back to the cantina ordered a gin & tonic, sat in the shade outside the cantina before dinner, and IM´d my brother to tell him he is still a loser (nice). I then ate dinner, drank wine, consumed a rice and cream desert, and went to bed hoping I could get some solid sleep. Tomorrow, I need to first walk 5.8 kilometers to the city of Carrion de los Condes and then start to draft an exit strategy.

Later...

092209 Day Nine

Location: Carrion de los Condes, Bakery -eating pastries and drinking coffe. need to fuel 17.5 kms to go today!
Date: 092409, 9:31 AM


Lost Wallet!! Help!! Send Lawyers, Guns, and Money please!!! (Or at least money). As we returned to the story in Hontanas, I had lost my wallet and did not even know it? After drinking as much water, washing my feet, and splashing as much water all over my body from the magical fountain in town which is reported to posses healing powers I took a quick nap. I awoke in the Albergue and went down to dinner, Mike (from Vancouver), Susana (from Germany), and I had reservations for 6:00 PM. I went down stairs and was encountered by one of the gals who was working in the bar. She asked me if my name was Paul/Pablo and went on trying to ask me something else? (Huh?) I kept trying to say the reservation was for 3 in the name of Mike. I did not understand her at all? (May be I can´t speak after all spanish? :( I wonder what else there is I can´t do. I am sure I can whistle.... Let me see.... Yep, I can definitely whistle.. Whooo.. I am good!) She finally rolled her eyes with a smile and handed me my wallet. I was totally shocked. She apparently was trying to question me about the wallet. I tucked the wallet as close to my body as humanly possible had dinner and went to bed. At dinner I had a garlic kind of soup and a beef stew. It was awesone. For desert I had flan. Mike and I also split the bottle of vino tinto which he described as cheeky. (And I described as yummy, Yo!) Went to bed and got up at 5:33 AM.

Got up early in the hopes of seeing the stars as I began to walk. I left town as fast a turtle falling off a swing set. Unfortunately for me the clouds did not agree with my plans. As the trail left the road, it continued into the hilly countryside. I walked along the almost pitch black path when as if a request had been fulfilled the sky opened up. It was truly magnificent. Above I could see Orion who´s arrow would guide me westward. In the north I could see Polaris and both the big and little dipper. I could pick out cassiopeia. It was awesome. If that wasn´t enough I was fortunate enough to see a shooting star. Upon seeing it, I quickly made my wish and humbly counted my blessings. I continued in the dark passing old ruins of some kind. I was quickly set upon by a very cute but much older and very active couple from Flanders. Their head lamps twinkled behind me. As a rule, I do not use a light unless absolutely necessary. They were surprised to find me and I greeted them with my typical ¨What up Flanders!¨ (No, I just said hi/Hola. However, I am dying to say Okley Doakley to them, but fortunately I do have some restraint.) They continued and I let them past. So to wrap up, later I climbed the last meseta, 950 meters straight up, (now leaving meseta country and into the plains of spain), crossed a still active Roman bridge, and stopped in Itero de la Vega.

In Itero del la Vega an unscrupulous dog named Kiko tried to make friends with me only beacause he wanted some of my ham sandwich (what a little weasel). Not sure if I should reward him, I decide to call an expert. I called a 9 year old girl and dog expert I know. Abigail picked up the phone (she was getting ready for school) and to my surprise had no opinion on the subject. (Love you Abigail.) I ended up feed the dog anyway (sucker). Abigail and I had a nice talk as Xavier was still snoozing. According to Abigail, Xavier will be a teenager in 2 years. (My God help us all.) He must be resting up for it.

I made my post meet Garsten from Quebec, had dinner, and went to bed. Next stop Poblacion de Campos or Villasirga. Thank you for reading and making comments it means a great to me. :)

Peace Out!

092109 Day Eight

Location: Itero de la Vega
Date: 092209, 3:13 PM

Left Hornillos early in the morning at dark, 7:00 AM. Even so I was one of the last to leave. We are now heading into the very desolate parts of the meseta land and no one wants to miss an albergue as they are stretched too far apart and there really is no bus or taxi service to speak of. For example Hornillos has a population of 100 people and the next albergue in San Bol has no population except for the albergue. I decided I would shoot for Hontanas and stay there. It was 10.8 kilometers away in the middle of the meseta. The morning was cool with a constant breeze and the meseta I climbed was 950 meters. The down hill was a beotch! I pretty much walked alone with nothing but the constant wind as my company. The land is not life less but there is nothing out here, (jack squat). I enjoyed the climb as I always do and about 3.5 hours later of non-stop walking I was perplexed. Hornillos had vanished. It simply was not there. By my reckoning I should be there or at least be seeing it. I continued to walk and as if by miracle the trail descended opening into a small cut of a valley and there before me was the church clock tower and pueblo of Hontanas (very wild). I walked into town stopping at the first albergue next to the church 10 meters from the second albergue in the town and proceded to eat. I had 2 huge sanwiches with egg, a cup of cafe con leche, and a glass of wine all before 10:30 AM (breakfast of champions, I say). I then enjoyed the sitting in the sun in what was now turing out to a very sunny albeit blustery day. As soon as possible I grabbed the now seemingly ultra-modern computer as compared to the one I am using now and then the unthinkable happened (and I didn´t even know it). I lost my wallet!!!!

I appreciate your reading the blog and posting comments. It means a lot to mean. Peace out!

092009 Day Seven

Date: 092298
Time: 3:13 PM
Location: Itero del la Vega, En Castilla y Leon, Spain
Status: :)

I stand corrected. I am currently using the most antiquated nasty computer in Spain if not the whole world. I think it almost threw a rod she (the owner of the Albergue) booted it up. The screen is a 14 inch Phillips and the cpu case has long since lost its cover. There are more wires under this desk where the cpu sits then the fire hazard we used to call the Haigh family Christmas tree. The modem runs at 33.6 kbps (super lame). And when the phone rings here I get bumped off (Awesome). But it is free to all who stay here, for 5 euros that is. So, I will cease complaining and try to get caught backup.

The story left off in Burgos. I awoke very early Sunday morning, 092009, in Burgos to see the little old french lady stirring on the bottom bunk. About 30 minutes later I looked down again and she appeared to be falling back to sleep, she was all strectched out. I look down again about 20 minutes later and she had vanished. (I knew it, she was a ninja.) I never here saw her again.

The day was very grey and cloudy as we headed into the meseta which is sort of like cowboy farm country. (Badges, we don´t need no stinking badges. You could almost here the sound of a bull whip except there are no cows, just grain, sun flowers that have turned, and these tall flat mountians that dot the landscape. I was looking to stop in a pueblo called Rabe to make it a short day and get some extra rest. However, big problem as I cruised into Rabe after about 11 km I soon learned that all the albergues were closed due to a festival that was occurring that night. (What´s the festival ¨Happy Break Paul and Make Him Cry Day¨?) I was not a happy cowboy. Nothing left to do but climb the 950 km Mesta that lay before me and hope to get a spot in one of the albergues in Hornillos. The sky was still grey but the sun started to show a bit as I climbed the meseta and finally reached Hornillos. In Hornillos I meet Barabara again (one of my German friends), Dora from Hungary, Susana from Germany, and Bernard from France. Before dinner we drank some wine and waited for what appears to have been at least 2 hours to get served dinner. I went bed at 9:30 PM way too tired and hoping to catch a short day tomorrow.

Follow-up notes:

Ran in to someone who told me that the Japanese rocker dude does not even play the guitar. He is carrying as a gesture of solidarity for his friend a guitar player who is dying of cancer.

Also, I did meet Phillip the other German who is a 2 year medical student (anesthesia) in Burgos. Apparently, the little rocks in the Paella in Ages did not agree with him and he took illl and had to go to the hospital in Burgos. Apparently, he is better and is now continuing with the Camino.

I very much appreciate you reading the blog and posting comments. It means a lot to me.


Supplies:
16 pieces of Dentyne Ice -minty fresh breath for 112 miles so far.
still no oxicotin
23 pretzel sticks
0 bottle of vino tinto -they don´t seem to last that long. besides, way too heavy to carry.
1 topical antibiotic
0 tape
1 free orange
1 free banana

091909 Day Six

Haven´t seen a computer in days. I am a bit behind and am currently using the oldest computer in Spain, a Dell Optiplex GX110 (lame). It has a keyboard that is just down right nasty (its kinda sticky). I am sure it is encrusted with Swine Flu and it defintely smells like old ham. (I feel so dirty. I am just going to take one for the team. The story must be told. ;) )

Well, I left Ages in the darkeness of the early morning before my German friends. They soon caught up to me. My feet were still as hard as rocks. We walked together until after the very small city of Atapuerca until we came upon the small mountain Alto Cruciero, 1080 meters. At this point I pulled away. (Because my cowboy legs dig the climb, hate the down hill, but dig the climb.) I left them sure that I would see them in Burgos. Interesting to note, in the caves outside of Atapuerca there has been found evidence of the earliest human presence in Europe, nice. Unfortunately, the museum was not open when we cruised by (sorry Xavier). (I did take pitures of the exterior of the museum which is cool.)

The terrain flattend out to my disappointment and I kept cruising. I came upon the nice older french woman from Belorado, the woman with the 5 American granchildren and the 73 year old lady who does not speak. (I am sure she is a retired ninja.) I bid them a ¨Bien Camino¨ and I moved on ahead passing them. Much latter down the line I determined that I had took a wrong turn and had to double back about 50 meters. At this point I encountered the retired ninja lady. Using hand gestures and speaking very loudly in broken spanish and english (like it helps) I managed to get us both set off in the right direction. (My inner boy scout was very proud of himself). The retired ninja was short (as all ninjas are) and in her face there was a remarkable appearance of both strength and serenity. Behind spectacles she had very dark eyes which had a piercing look about them. Anyway I walked a head keeping her close behind in case she needed something or spoke (because I swear she was mute). (And I am not being nasty here she just never spoke.) Eventually, going by the Burgos airport, I pulled away conveniced she wasn´t a retired ninja after all she was just a very tough, determined, quiet old lady. Right around this time to my surprise I was past by a short Japanes rocker dude (I kid you not) carrying not only his back pack but a freakin guitar in his left hand. (I am thinking, dude you are nuts. I guess he´s lucky he doesn´t play the drums or the piano. What ever dude?) I reached the out edge of Burgos and came upon a fountain which was awesome because I was out of water and very tired. At this time to my surprise the little old french lady smoked past me and I lost her. (What the hell?) For whatever reason this fired me up. Long story short, I ended up catching her again and we navigated the city together getting lost going by the Cathedral (which is freakin amazing). The city was crazy. There was traffic, some freakin protest (Free James Brown), pedestrians, buses, and several weddings. The little lady offerred to buy me bread (she finally spoke, I win) but I said she didn´t have to (a gin and tonic yes, bread no.) After navigating through several wedding receptions (when the bride and groom exit the church) and being pelted with rice and confetti at least twice and being subjected to the sound of fireworks which sounded like cannon fire at close range (it sounded like Baghdad) we found the albergue. Seriously tired, I ended up getting a top bunk as it turns out over top of the 73 year old french lady. I passed out in a heap and then got up later, cleaned, tended to my feet, and then went out to look for a pharmacy. I will try to wrap this up. I went into the plaza mayor ate the beef combination platter (beef consume, beef steaks, beef sausage, and a vanilla popcicle which tasted strangely like beef) at a local restaurante and drank wine in the afternoon sun. Im´d my brother to tell he was a loser then checked out the Catherdral (still amazing), found an italian ice cream stand (had two, they were awesone), and found two canadians from Barrie Ontario a father and son (go figure). Us Barre/Barrie folk shared a bottle of wine. Later I watched a weird artsy performance in the plaza mayor and then went to bed. (Stayed out way too late) The little french later was already out. Tomorrow off to Hornillos and into the Meseta (looks like cowboy country). Peace Out.

Status: Trancendental :)

Supplies:
21 pieces of Dentyne Ice -fresh breath is my life.
still no oxicotin
30 pretzel sticks
0 bottle of vino tinto
1 topical antibiotic
1 tape
0 apples

Short Summary:
-27.7 Kilometers traversed
-From Belorado to Ages (going past St. Juan de Ortega)
-into the mountians, 1150 meters at the highest elevation.
-rained all day.
-did not stop until I reached the top.
-ate largest sandwich ever and a coffee and then moved on to Ages for the night.
-hung out with Phillip, Veronica, and Barbara from Germany.
-meet America Dave and wife from Canada.
-impressed Germans with ability to consume Paella.
-answered emails and made posts.

Today I was the last guy in the room at the Santa Maria Albergue in Belorado. What happend to my roomies, they totally dissed me. I awoke got my gear together and then at breakfast proceeded to make a crazy concoction of nescaffe, chocolate quick mix, hot water, milk, and a glob of jam that fell off my toast. I was way too sleepy to remake the drink. I sat down, said good morning to the colony of files, buenos dias, shared some of my meal with them, and then tore out of town very very slowly. I needed to wait for my feet to wake up. Luckly the pouring rain helped keep me awake as I headed into the mountians to St. Juan de Ortega. It basically poured the whole way. I was able with my camera to catalog the many different shades of mud sticking to my shoes: orange, red, light tan, and brown (who would of thought there could be such a range of colors, huh, nice?). I loved the mud it was so nice and squishy on my feet. Like walking in cake batter. Well the mountains were great (born in WestVirgina living in Vermont, and friend of ¨Goat Boy¨Bryan Rooney, hell yeah). I basically felt great except for the extended traverses down hill which start to cramp the left leg (I known, sally). At the top I reunited with the french ladies from the night before (one is 73 years old, damn, must be a ninja) whom left me at like 6:00 AM (schooled them). Along the way I also meet a guy fom Vancouver Island, Mike. (He is Bilbo Baggins from Lord of the Rings!) Nice guy is wife still thinks he is as the local pub back home on Vancouver Island. (Go figure. Just kidding.) Well, Mike and I parted and then I past him latter. (Out of the way hobbit.) Because the kid did not stop. Along the route to the top I had to focus on breathing so much so that I was not able to eat the apple I brought. So in order to do this I had to slowly take very very small bites. I decide that for very every bite I took I would say a small pray of thanks and protection for all those I hold dear in my heart. I finished the apple 10 kilometers later.

At the top my feet were tired and as much as the sparse conditions of the Albergue and the cold showers appealed to me I decide to eat and then move on to Ages the next village. While at the top near St. Juan de Ortega I had the largest sandwich ever. It was basically a very wide french bread stuffed with an egg and sausage omelette. It was truly sublime. (I haven´t had a vegtable in 10 days. Sorry colon.) Got to Ages meet my German friends had dinner and impressed them by doing magic tricks. No just kidding at this stage of the Camino eating monster portions of Paella is as impressive as it gets. Paella is a signature spainsh rice dish which includes vegtables, chicken, ham, anything with a face, liver, seafood, small rocks. Just kidding they weren´t small rocks but rather pieces of chicken bone. But I was not going to complain. I asked for second with extra rocks, please. It was muy bueno. For desert we were served the Spanish version of a hoodsie cup (small cup with chocolate and vanilla ice cream).

I checked my eamil surfed porn and went to bed. Just kidding, Haven´t you been paying attention, I am on a spirtual journey, Yo! Porn doesn´t jive with that! Gezzz.. Thank you for reading the blog and posting comments. It means a lot to me.

091709 Day Four

Alas Joseph was in fine form with his Rhambo like bandana on ( some pilgims called him that) and today pulled away from me as we crossed over into the region called Castilla y Leon. However before that we had coffee and meet up with an Austria dude named Rudy whom we meet the night before. Let me tell you Rudy is hard core. He started walking from Austria (yes freakin Austria) and he sleeps out every single night (talk about frugal). (He must save a ton of money on car insurance.) The guy is a machine or machina if you are in Spain. Anyway, today I felt great thanks to my buddy the medico in Sanata Domingo (I did shake the man´s hand.). I could feel my feet changing, healing, and mutating just like Perter Parker after the spider bite. I kicked butt and was the second person to get to the Albergue called Santa Maria in Belorado. Due to my affinity with Santa Maria I felt it to be a good omen. Unfortunatley, it appears flies do so as well. The albergue was very spartan and had flies were every where and I mean every where. Bathroom? Yep. Hallway? Yep! Sleeping Area? Yep! Dinning table? Dude, there more flies there than on a dead wildabeast in Africa! It was Totally Lord of the flies. So I made the best of it. The accomadations maybe harboring some lethal disease. But again it was free except for a donation and I ain´t sleeping outside again. While I laid in my bed resting I made sport out of killing them. I even managed to get 4 out of the air with a single swipe. I had some beers in town and ate the most unhealthy chocolate covered waffle cake thing I bought at the supermarcado (definitely not atkins aproved). At 8:00 PM there was mass and a special service in the churchfor pilgrims. The church was lierally attached to the albergue. It is the first time ever (I think ) I was not late for church. Check that goal off my list... Went to bed. Next day heading into the mountains. Thank you for reading and for the comments I means a great deal to me. I hope to post some pictures when I get a chance.

Miles to Santiago: 363.

091609 Day Three

Ok, I am way behind... Haven´t seen a computer in what seems like forever (my carpal tunnel is totally cured ). The next town Joseph and I arrive at was Santa Domingo de la Calzada. The Cathedral of Santa Domingo de la Calzada is there. He is the patron saints for the pilgrims or at least did much to assist and promote the pilgimage. Some parts of church are like a 1000 years old. The city is about 5,000 folks and the old portion where the albergue is just beautiful. Here is the chicken story. The is myth is called the Miracle of the Cock and the hen. There once was this beautiful inn keepers daughter who became smitten with a young lad as he traveled with his family along the pligrim route. For what ever reason he refused her advances(lame.). Angered by this she hid a gold cup in his bag and had him arrested for robbery (that will teach him). He then was hanged. It is not clear where his parents were when this happened (probably watching the evening news)? Anyway returning back they found him miraculously hanging in the gallows being protected by Santa Domingo. The parents then went to see the sheriff and ask for the release of their son. They came upon the sheriff as he was about to commence in a chicken dinner. When the parents said there son was alive the sheriff protested by saying that he was ¨no more alive than the chickens he was to have for dinner¨. At this the chickens sprung to life and crowed. I will leave you to find the moral here (you could go many ways here). To this day there are live chickens kept in the Cathedral and I have the pix to prove it.

We started at 6:00 AM from Asofra. During the trip to Santa Domingo it rained heavy with a strong head wind. Good news we only had to travel16 Kilometers. Bad news I did not stop once and it was a steady slow climb. And I mean not once. Joseph pulled away from me but I caught him when he had to take a powder. We entered Santa Domingo together and were the first to place our bags in front of the nicest albergues I have ever seen. It was very cool and modern with all the ammenities. It was also free except for a donation. The people running the place were nice and gave us simple directions to the shops were I had to buy a fleece (we are heading into the mountains) and some walmart like teva sandals. (Oh brother, I swore I would never buy a pair, I am a chuck taylor docksider kind of guy not a teva guy, whaterver dude.)

I also go to see a medico (doctor) who was so impressed my blistered feet he took a picture of one and called his assistant over to see it. Let me tell it looks nasty. I won´t even example how bad it looks. No pain no gain right!

That night in the common area Joseph and I chatted with other pilgrims, a german girl named Veronica who is a packaging major and these 3 Spain marathoner ladies who average about 7 kilometers an hour. On of the ladies makes very expensive woman´s leather shoes. We finishe my bottle of wine with bread and cheese then retired. We left the next day at 6:30 AM in the dark.

091509 Day Two Continued

Jopeh is a legend. He is a retired engineer from Mercedes and a grandfather. He is full of life and a wicked lady charmer. He speaks several languages sometimes at the sametime. He keeps using Italian instead of Spanish and confuses the hell out of me. If he can´t say it in one of the languages he knows he acts it out and uses sounds. He acts like a kid. Simply put we get along great even though we don´t understand each other half the time. We shared the cab from Ventosa when we were both shut out from the albergue. The taxi was the best taxi I have ever seen. It was freakin awesome. It was a Mercedes A class and we did about 90 miles an hour (if not more) to Asofra were I posted yesterday. The driver had more blink on him than a gangster rapper. The taxi business must be good.

In Asofra when were fortunate to get space on the floor in a long hallway. Next to some other German folk and a Polish Couple. Also in Asofra it became official my feet had massive blisters on them. When I showered it made me whince in pain. Jospeh and I ate dinner, split a bottle of wine a Rioja (named after the region of Spain were are in) and I posted my entry then tried to sleep in a fit of exhaustion. The next day we got up at 6 AM and set out for Santa Domingo de la Calzado. Tomorrow I will tell you about the chickens.

Also, please remember my posts are always a day behind due to travel and access to the internet.

Thank you for reading.

091509 Day Two

Reporting form Santa Domingo de Calzado, Rioja, Spain

Status: Alive but spent.

Supplies:
28 pieces of Dentyne Ice
still no oxicotin
35 pretzel sticks
0 granola bars
1 very bruised apple
half bottle of vino

Short Summary:
-From Top of cold Mountain North of Torres del Rio to Viana (last town along trail in Navarre, Basque Country).
-Viana to Logrono.
-Logrono to Ventosa. (Albergue in Ventosa and Najera full.)
-Slept on floor Azofra.
-Walked for 13 hours straight with only 45 minutes total rest with 3 stops.
-Covered about 47 kilometers.
-Feet blistered and in pain.
-Mentally and physically drained. Meet two Germans.
-Tomorrow it will rain. (Its all good. :) )

Post:

Where did we leave off? Ah, top of frozen Mountain at 4:30 AM right, I then proceeded to work my way along the trail in pitch darkness using my head lamp and flash light when necessary. I got lost at least twice due to the darkeness which stressed me out a bit. I walked basically in total darkness and solitude for the next 3 to 4 hours (Spain does not adhere to day light savings time) with only the stars to keep me company. The stars while not too chatty were majestic, serene, and inspiring. I dig stars. I was thankful to have them to view along with the lights of Viana off in the distance. At this point I am out of water and my cell phone battery is very low (so i turned it off after fumbling with due to the cold). My mind is also wandering and turning negative and some fatigue is starting to kick in.

Viana is a small city with the population of 3,500 and from the looks of it they know how to party. Upon entering the town I found a water fountain, filled up my water bottle, and took a quickie French shower. Now presentable I made may way through the town along the trail bearing witness to all the refuse from a big celebration the night before. As I walked I would occasionally come across men dressed in white wearing red bandanas as the started to make their way home. (Bandana, another thing I forgot. Rats.) It appears that last night´s celebration included bulls fights. Cool. Pressing toward Ventosa I next came to Logrono in Rioja Spain. In Logrono I stopped for 25 minutes ate a tortilla (which in Spain is a cross between an omlette and a quiche and is already made) and 2 beers. What can I say the cell phone was really really low. After finishing I walked by the Igesia Santiago Church (St. James) and proceeded to leave the town. Logrono is a very large college town of 115,000. It took me a long time to navigate through the city without loosing my way. By the time I reached the city park area at the edge of town I was spent. I laid down in the grass for 15 minutes and would have slept, however sleep would not come. I proceeded to stretch and then go on. At this point I have not had a meaningful interaction with another human in 48 hours. Time to ¨Cowboy Up¨. 11 kilometers later I was at Navarette a town of 2200. During this part of the trek I noticed I was being followed by a mysterious female dressed in black. It turns out this was Mila which is German for Mary. She is works with children from broken homes and is at University to be a primary teacher. She was very kind and helped me with my pack which needed adjusting. (I know, I know, leave it to a woman to get things done.) I left Mila behind as she had to wait for her companions and I got wheels (even in my sorry shape I was still walking very fast). I blew past many other pilgrims without a word feeling a little better after some conversation and having learned my second German word, the word for ¨bow and arrow¨. I will not attempt to spell it here. In Navarette I bought 6 drinkable yogurts and 3 pinapple juices. I consumed them all sans one juice. I continued on not feeling so good, slowing down mentally and physically. Outside of Navarette I stopped one last time under a freeway underpass near a pair of jeans. Some poor guy or girl must have lost them. So my fear of loosing pants is not unfounded. (I will have to dicuss the significance of the jeans with my friend Mariya.) Deciding against taking them with me I pushed on for what I guess was another 3 kilometers. I then could see Ventosa perched on a very steep hill. (Great, Love it.) I finally reached the Albergue which was full (Jakpot). This is when I meet Joseph. I have to stop here and get some rest. I will try to add more later. Thank you for reading.

All in all I consider survival a good thing and hope to stay in one piece. Peace out.

Health:
feet hurt beacuse feet look like hamburger.
no bee stings
no swine flu
only one near death experiences, working on number 2. ;)
sleep not so much.
3 days without coffee from Bueno Expresso

091409 Day One

Day One

Reporting form Asofra, Rioja, Spain

Status: Alive if not suffering from te latent effects of hypotherma

Supplies:
31 pieces of Dentyne Ice
no oxicotin
38 pretzel sticks
2 granola bars
1 ipod, with way too many High School Muscial Songs, thanks Abigail. :) (I love and miss you and Xavier.)
1 role of duct tape. (Never leave home without.)
1 camping knife. (Total mistake -on my keys. GITMO here I come :( )

Short Summary:
-Barre to Lebanon.
-Lebanon to Boston.
-Boston Madrid.
-Metro from Airport to Train Station.
-Bullet Train from Madrid to Pamplona. (Awesome ride excpet for movie Bride Wars in spanish. Utter torture. We can export that crap? No wonder Europeans hate us. Except for me. I am global.. :) )
-Bus from Pamplona to Los Arcos. (This is where I concluded last year.)
-Camped out (almost froze).

Post:

Monday was crazy. Was in constant motion except when sitting and waiting for another mode of transportation. Flight had only 2 infants and not only were they cute as bugs ears but they were also very well behaved. Another item in the plus column is I did not get lost in the Metro like last year and want to cry like a Sally(No comment. Never Happened).

I haven´t really ate much due to all the moving around, although the blue airline food digested quite nicely without incident. Also, as a rule I don´t drink wine, however a small bottle is included on Iberia flights that serve a meal. (I´ll take the free booze any time it´s an option. In fact I had it with the breakfast sandwich thingy as well before we landed. What- I am Europe here, they brush their teeth with wine.) Lastly regarding the flight, I got hit with a Sandra Bullock movie in Spanish (first) before I even hit the train. I barely survived it as well.

Upon arrving in Los Arcos from Pamplona my pent up nervous energy kicked-in hard, in spite of excerizing in Pamplona in the park next to the bus station, and I elected not to stay in Los Arcos but struck out instead to sleep on the top of a freezing cold moutain. Mistake? Yes and I did buy a bottle of wine. (I am noticing a theme here.) Additionally, had a very weird experience walking by the church in Los Arcos and I won´t be speaking to anyone about it.

I survived the cold and the 4 hours of sleep. If shivering uncontrollaby while passing in and out of consciousness can be counted as sleep. I thought I had earned my lesson from back in college but I digress. My goal today is Ventosa. 46 kilometers away. I will report on my progress in my next post. So far the weather has been breezy and fall like and the lanscape has been beautiful and interesting just as I remember. Other items worth mentioning include the following:


I forgot my spanish lanuage book. (Major disaster.)

I forgot my other pair pants. (Better lose the one I brought.)

I forgot about the worsening exchange rate on the dollar. I have about $33 bucks and a MacDonalds for a happy meal with toy. Sorry Abigail, I forgot that too.)

All in all I consider the trip a success so far but I may be biased I am a pathetic optimist (loser). I will keep you posted. Peace out.



Health:

no bee stings

no swine flu

only one near death experiences

about zero sleep unless you count shivering in an out of consciousness for 4 hours. (don´t try this at home.)

1 day without coffee from Bueno Expresso



Milles to go: 406

Bustin Outta here! Am heading to Spain today 9/13 (Abigail's birthday)

Am heading to Spain today 9/13 (Abigail's birthday). If interested please follow the the blog I have created:

http://fieldofstars09.blogspot.com

If you enjoy the blog please consider making a donation to the Vt Foodbank at:

http://www.vtfoodbank.org/donate/

More to come. Next stop Madrid after I get a coffee from the "Bueno Expresso" (World's Greatest Coffee.) Peace out.


Thank you.

-paul

011 44 75 2554 5207

test post for fieldofstars09 blog - xavier's birthday

test post for fieldofstars09 blog -paul

today is xavier's birthday.

Birthday Gifts:

nintendo ds with pokemon game: $130.00

sling shot: $10.00

11 year old boy pretending to hunt pokemon with sling shot: $priceless...

at dhmc testing blog on my break

at dhmc testing blog on my break

hanging with x on the terrace...

test post. at be with laura and pat..