Saturday, September 26, 2009

092809 Last Post

092809 Last Post

Location: Leon , Spain

Summary:
miles covered -many
secret decoder ring recovered -check
nail clippers -check
jeans/pants -still working on it. may have to embrace not meeting pants goal till USA. (I hate to loose! :( )
scarf -check
floss -check
fresh breath goal -check (two days 2 pieces of Dentyne Ice. I am so good!)
consumption of wine(exponential increase) -check
no time spent in spanish prison (so far) -check
pretzel sticks -working on the last bit now. crumbs are flying everywhere.
swine flu -negative


I am in Leon (finally made it after staying the night in Arcahueja) and have no idea when I will see another computer after this morning.

In Arcahueja, I meet an Austria dude named Norbert who is an IT guy from Viena and who also teaches yoga. We shared dinner and excellent conversation (no asanas perfomed during the meal). The next day he left first in the dark and I followed at 7:00 AM or so. I wanted to leave the Camino walking in solitude the same as I had started some 14 days ago. The sky was magnificent with stars again as was the view of Leon from the surrounding hills as I decended into the city. In Leon I checked out the Cathedral which is truly awe inspiring. I also meet Mickey Mouse (who made me smile) and was in the square in front of the Cathedral making balloons. I was tempting to ask for a balloon pony hat to wear but resisted the temptation (no, just messing). That day and night I meet up with many lost friends from the previous days and a large group of us had dinner where I was the only one who could not understand french. The food was lame but the company and bottles of wine were great. It was a wonderful meal. There are so many things to write but so little time. (Such is life.) Right now, I need to find a way to Madrid with the money I have left in my wallet (hoping I do not have to beg too much). (Can always thumb, right.)

So to totally mess with my readers I will change the tone to a serious one (bam, just like that).

1. I hope all those who read my blog enjoyed it and were able to grasp my sarcastic tone. When I write, things just seem to come out. Additionally, I hope I did not offend anyone´s sensibilities or violate too many rules of grammar, spelling, punctuation, etc. Thank you very much for reading it and posting comments. It really has meant a lot to me.

2. So why do people do the Camino? I guess there are many reasons. In my case I have a long story and it is not my intention to bore anyone with it in this blog (or ever). If anyone has any questions about walking the Camino, please feel free to buy me a coffee at the Expresso Bueno and I will answer them as best I can. I would be happy to lend or even give any books to anyone who has questions on the subject.

3. It is impossible when walking along the Camino not to take time and consider one´s blessings. When I consider this I am truly humbled and probably not deserving of such wonderful family and friends. I promise to work hard and not to screw things up. You are always in my thoughts and prayers.

4. Although, I have consumed all manner of alcoholic beverages from the airplane to now and will till I depart (yo, I am on a roll). I have not at any time been inebriated (crazy, huh) or even close to tipsy. (I will need to work harder at this (I have my pride you know). I will make no promises going forward. Just kidding. ;) ) They plane ride should be interesting. (Who´s the naughtiest guy on this plane?)

5. No animals (except some flies -pre Ahimsa policy.), pilgrims, or historically significant structures were permanently damaged in the writing of this blog. (Well, I can never be totally sure about this or serious for that matter. Cut me some slack, yo!)

Lastly, I had a great time in Spain, but all good things must come to an end. If all goes well and they let me back in the country (please) I should be in Boston on Wednesday.

Please watch for my next blog: FieldOfMagaritas2010. (Appearing soon on an internet near you.)


-paul

092509 Day Twelve

Location: Arcahueja, right before Leon.
Date: 09/26/09, 12:59 PM

Supplies:
8 pieces of Dentyne Ice -pressure is on. may have to start recycling gum. 2 days per piece. I can do it.
0 floss -this may interfer with fresh breath goal. need to replenish asap.
still no oxicotin
16 pretzel sticks
1 topical antibiotic
1 paper tape
31 small spoons -don´t ask
1 nail clippers (goal)
0 jeans (goal) -please consider this to be official pants replacement.
0 scarf (goal)
2 brusied peaches
113 number of flies not killed due to new adoption of Ahimsa policy.
2 postcards mailed to Abigail and Xavier. Just as I promised Abigail!
89 pounds of ham consumed so far
23 loaves of bread consumed so far. (They are bread crazy here. Never heard of atkins, huh?)
1 ipod -almost out of power. (Still too many Taylor Swift songs. Although,... one is kinda catchy (I know, so lame). Believe it or not I am hearing the catchy song on the radio here in Espana. Heard it twice so far. Or maybe its just the brain damage talking. Go figure.)
1 camera -battery almost dead, 823 pictures.

Awoke in Sahagun at 6:30 AM or so after having scarf dream and making doctor´s apointment the night before with Abigail. Crusied by plaza mayor and found a place for coffee. Had coffee and headed out of town. The morning was cool and the path was lined with small trees that had leaves that were similar to maple leaves but obviously were not. Out of Sahagun walked with Dora for a bit. Here wheel (ankle) was hurting her. My feet were still sore, stiff, but healing. We then meet another dude from Hungry and they had a nice conversation. I wanting to walk alone for a while and took full advantage pulling ahead to El Burgo Ranero. On the way I called Abigail and Xavier only to find out that Abigail is now answering the phone like it´s a veterinarian´s office. (She is adorable. Where does she get this imagination?) I spoke with Abigail and Xavier for a while and made an appointment for my dog, next Thursday nail clipping. I then reached El Burgo Ranero and took a rest at the cross right at the entrance of the town. at this time the sun was blazing and Spain was in full desert mode. While resting I managed to both watch and capture on film another small lizard that lived in the stones. I chilled out in El Burgo Ranero for an hour or two an then (in order to ensure that I would make Leon by Sunday) shared a cab to Mansilla del las Mullas with some other pilgrims. From here on out I will have 2 days of walking and I will be in Leon. Even though I have taken a bus and cab I will still have walked at least 6.0 kilometers every day since I arrived in Spain (and still no oxicotin, rats). We arrived in Mansilla de las Mullas which is a walled city and quickly found the albergue. That night I had a nice dinner that actually had a vegtable, a salad (no, impossible, yes possible). It was iceberg (lame). I also shared two bottles of wine with the pligrims at my table (they joined me once they spotted me). (Basically, I am the coolest pilgrim in country. Get a hold of yourself. Whatever dude.) After dinner we had extensive discussion about the American holiday of Thanksgiving, American´s appreciation for sweet deserts, and Maple syrup and pancakes. I was clear to point out that the following:

-Thanksgiving is awesome (they think this is my favorite word). Turkey American football pumpkin pie. What´s not to love?

-Flan is ok but it´s no Brownie Sundae. (Take that, beotch.)

-A crepe is not a pancake. It supposed to be heavy and filling. After you eat a pancake smothered with VT Maple syrup your supposed to go hunt down a critter, shovel a driveway full of snow, or go back to bed to sleep off a hangover. (You know, serious business. A crepe is not going to help you with this.)

After the wine and scoring big points in the great pancake debate I went back to the albergue to go to bed. I brushed my teeth, washed up, and went to bed. Tomorrow I head to Arcahueja, one stop before Leon.

Thursday, September 24, 2009

092409 Day Eleven

Location: Mansilla de las Mullas, Spain, Next to some serioulsy heavy smoker old dude. (I need a bath now. Yuck!) And listening to a very cheesy Spanish Soap Opera. No te quieres!!! Nunca!!, I never loved you, Never!, Whoa!)


Date: 09/25/09, 4:33 PM


Ok, I awoke in Villasirga to the sound of pilgrims exiting. I was the last to leave. (Later dudes. What no goodbye?) I quickly got ready and was ultra psyched to learn that there was free breakfast. I grab some bread smothered it with margarine (haven´t they learned maragarine can kill you. Butter is the way to go dude!) and jam. Created a crazy cup of coffee with chocolate powder, and a scoop of some other unfamilair powder. It wasn´t crack. Jammed it all in my head, packed my stuff, and went downstairs. I took a moment to get a picture of Darth (Gunner) and his wife and he then took my arm anded pointed out the different stars in the sky. (And, I thought I was touch-feely.) I resisted the urge to have him say ¨Luke I am your father¨one more time and bid them both a very fond farewell. (They were really cool folks.) I walked to Carrion de los Condes as fast as I could and counted my blessings as I went. I also had some time to consider some of the great mysteries of life. Like why do they call it a ¨White Sale¨ its not all white? Or why do we say ¨pair of pants¨? You can´t buy a single pant? Or why does my brain think of such shallow silly things (Please no comments on this point)? At any rate the morning was cool and the sky was a rich blue as I reached Carrion de los Condes and found a panderia/bar. I stuffed myself on a pastery called pasas y nunces, drank coffee, and made a post to the blog. In the throws of a caffine and sugar rush I stepped outside considering my next options. It was comforting to find out that the sun was now blazing as hot as ever (not). In what can only be called divine intervention (which appears to occur on a daily basis with me as of late) I spied two pilgrims across the street. One of them I recognized. It was Dora (the explorer) from Hungry. I navigated the busy street to meet them and say hi. Dora told me that we could take the bus to Sahagun from here. This was perfect. That would allow me to catch-up a bit and make Leon by Sunday or Monday. I was totally down with that. Bought my ticket killed some time (transalation had a beer) and waited for the bus. Bus was late, but no matter, I savored the divine intervention and enjoyed the ride. On the bus meet another American, Jonathon who was born in concord, NH. During the bus ride I fully embraced the new policy of Ahimsa and resisted the urge to kill the flies that were trying to torment me. We arrived in Sahagun found a cafe in a beautifully shaded park that sat at an odd corner and was shaped as a long thin triangle. I then had a beer and tried a local spirit called ärooho (or something like that). The spirit is served chilled and is only indiginous to this region of Spain. (Yeah, because it would explode if it ever got to room temperature or if one tried to transport it. My tongue is still numb.) I then decide to have a more repectable drink a gin and tonic (much better, more civilized). Went to the albergue picked a bed, explored town, found the plaza mayor, ate an awesome meal, made post to blog, and then went back out for a coffe and bought some grapes. While drinking coffe at the same cafe as earlier in the day I encountered some very elderly woman who said hi and wished me well on the Camino (they wanted my digits). I then went back to the albergue washed up, laid in bed, and called Abigail and Xavier. To my surprised the voice that answered the phone (a young 9 year old girl) said that I had reached a doctor´s office and wanted to know I wanted to make an appointment. I quickly asked for one next Wednesday told her to tell her brother I said hi and that I missed them both and would see them soon. I went to bed and had a dream about having to by a scarf (adding this to the list, Yo). The next day I walked to El Bergo Ranero.



092309 Day Ten

Location: Sahagun, Castilla y Leon, Spain
Date: 092409, 6:33 Pm


Supplies:
9 pieces of Dentyne Ice -appears to attract tiny sand flies. (Man, that really needs to be on the label.)
still no oxicotin
22 pretzel sticks -appear to be missing a pretzel stick (Rats!! Darn ninja!)
1 very mush pastry
1 topical antibiotic
1 paper tape
1 old plain yogurt
35 small spoons -don´t ask
1 nail clippers (goal)
0 jeans (goal)

I left Itero de la Vega after waking at 6:30 AM and not being able to sleep because of some noisy old Italian dudes. Again I was lucky enough to follow the stars. I followed Orion´s arrow tip westward into the hot dry plains of Spain. Question, why do they take a siesta in Spain? Answer, because during this time of the day Spain becomes the a freakin hot dry, shadesless, desert (I am talking surface of the sun hot, yo). I had orginally planned to make today another short day, however, in a fit of madness (probably due to the sun) or arrogance I decided to try to go longer. I ended up going 28 kilometers. The last 8 were in the hot blazing sun. I was fortunate to find a hippie bar in the middle where I could get water (I had run out) and a cerveza(beer). In the heat everything looks closer than it is. My crooked legs have never walked such a straight line in my life as when I walked the last 4.2 kilometers to Villasirga. I walked into town and went straight to the albergue. I reached the albergue to find out that I had been fortunate enough to take the very last bed, even though at the last minute I had been passed by 3 bikers who must have made a wrong turn because they were shut out. (Yeah buddy!) The man running the albergue along with his wife was Gunner from Cologne Germany. He was very nice and talked like Darth Vader. (He really did. I tried to get him to Luke I am your father but had not luck. No, I didn´t.) He was a very helpful dude who answered many questions I had regarding bus and train travel. He and his wife were very kind people. They really made me feel welcome. At this point in the journey my total focus is getting to Madrid on time. If I get stuck in a remote place in the countryside I may not be able to get back to Madrid in time to make my flight. I tried to nap but couldn´t (My brain was still basically on fire from the death march in the desert. So what´s better to put out a fire than the local watering hole across the way -10 meters from the front door of the albergue. ) I had a beer and bought 3 for some other pilgrims who came crawling in, Carlos from Texas, Wagner from Brazil, and some other gal from Estrella Spain who gave me 2 cookies. I went back in and tried to sleep. Failing at this again I went back to the cantina ordered a gin & tonic, sat in the shade outside the cantina before dinner, and IM´d my brother to tell him he is still a loser (nice). I then ate dinner, drank wine, consumed a rice and cream desert, and went to bed hoping I could get some solid sleep. Tomorrow, I need to first walk 5.8 kilometers to the city of Carrion de los Condes and then start to draft an exit strategy.

Later...

092209 Day Nine

Location: Carrion de los Condes, Bakery -eating pastries and drinking coffe. need to fuel 17.5 kms to go today!
Date: 092409, 9:31 AM


Lost Wallet!! Help!! Send Lawyers, Guns, and Money please!!! (Or at least money). As we returned to the story in Hontanas, I had lost my wallet and did not even know it? After drinking as much water, washing my feet, and splashing as much water all over my body from the magical fountain in town which is reported to posses healing powers I took a quick nap. I awoke in the Albergue and went down to dinner, Mike (from Vancouver), Susana (from Germany), and I had reservations for 6:00 PM. I went down stairs and was encountered by one of the gals who was working in the bar. She asked me if my name was Paul/Pablo and went on trying to ask me something else? (Huh?) I kept trying to say the reservation was for 3 in the name of Mike. I did not understand her at all? (May be I can´t speak after all spanish? :( I wonder what else there is I can´t do. I am sure I can whistle.... Let me see.... Yep, I can definitely whistle.. Whooo.. I am good!) She finally rolled her eyes with a smile and handed me my wallet. I was totally shocked. She apparently was trying to question me about the wallet. I tucked the wallet as close to my body as humanly possible had dinner and went to bed. At dinner I had a garlic kind of soup and a beef stew. It was awesone. For desert I had flan. Mike and I also split the bottle of vino tinto which he described as cheeky. (And I described as yummy, Yo!) Went to bed and got up at 5:33 AM.

Got up early in the hopes of seeing the stars as I began to walk. I left town as fast a turtle falling off a swing set. Unfortunately for me the clouds did not agree with my plans. As the trail left the road, it continued into the hilly countryside. I walked along the almost pitch black path when as if a request had been fulfilled the sky opened up. It was truly magnificent. Above I could see Orion who´s arrow would guide me westward. In the north I could see Polaris and both the big and little dipper. I could pick out cassiopeia. It was awesome. If that wasn´t enough I was fortunate enough to see a shooting star. Upon seeing it, I quickly made my wish and humbly counted my blessings. I continued in the dark passing old ruins of some kind. I was quickly set upon by a very cute but much older and very active couple from Flanders. Their head lamps twinkled behind me. As a rule, I do not use a light unless absolutely necessary. They were surprised to find me and I greeted them with my typical ¨What up Flanders!¨ (No, I just said hi/Hola. However, I am dying to say Okley Doakley to them, but fortunately I do have some restraint.) They continued and I let them past. So to wrap up, later I climbed the last meseta, 950 meters straight up, (now leaving meseta country and into the plains of spain), crossed a still active Roman bridge, and stopped in Itero de la Vega.

In Itero del la Vega an unscrupulous dog named Kiko tried to make friends with me only beacause he wanted some of my ham sandwich (what a little weasel). Not sure if I should reward him, I decide to call an expert. I called a 9 year old girl and dog expert I know. Abigail picked up the phone (she was getting ready for school) and to my surprise had no opinion on the subject. (Love you Abigail.) I ended up feed the dog anyway (sucker). Abigail and I had a nice talk as Xavier was still snoozing. According to Abigail, Xavier will be a teenager in 2 years. (My God help us all.) He must be resting up for it.

I made my post meet Garsten from Quebec, had dinner, and went to bed. Next stop Poblacion de Campos or Villasirga. Thank you for reading and making comments it means a great to me. :)

Peace Out!

Tuesday, September 22, 2009

092109 Day Eight

Location: Itero de la Vega
Date: 092209, 3:13 PM

Left Hornillos early in the morning at dark, 7:00 AM. Even so I was one of the last to leave. We are now heading into the very desolate parts of the meseta land and no one wants to miss an albergue as they are stretched too far apart and there really is no bus or taxi service to speak of. For example Hornillos has a population of 100 people and the next albergue in San Bol has no population except for the albergue. I decided I would shoot for Hontanas and stay there. It was 10.8 kilometers away in the middle of the meseta. The morning was cool with a constant breeze and the meseta I climbed was 950 meters. The down hill was a beotch! I pretty much walked alone with nothing but the constant wind as my company. The land is not life less but there is nothing out here, (jack squat). I enjoyed the climb as I always do and about 3.5 hours later of non-stop walking I was perplexed. Hornillos had vanished. It simply was not there. By my reckoning I should be there or at least be seeing it. I continued to walk and as if by miracle the trail descended opening into a small cut of a valley and there before me was the church clock tower and pueblo of Hontanas (very wild). I walked into town stopping at the first albergue next to the church 10 meters from the second albergue in the town and proceded to eat. I had 2 huge sanwiches with egg, a cup of cafe con leche, and a glass of wine all before 10:30 AM (breakfast of champions, I say). I then enjoyed the sitting in the sun in what was now turing out to a very sunny albeit blustery day. As soon as possible I grabbed the now seemingly ultra-modern computer as compared to the one I am using now and then the unthinkable happened (and I didn´t even know it). I lost my wallet!!!!

I appreciate your reading the blog and posting comments. It means a lot to mean. Peace out!

092009 Day Seven

Date: 092298
Time: 3:13 PM
Location: Itero del la Vega, En Castilla y Leon, Spain
Status: :)

I stand corrected. I am currently using the most antiquated nasty computer in Spain if not the whole world. I think it almost threw a rod she (the owner of the Albergue) booted it up. The screen is a 14 inch Phillips and the cpu case has long since lost its cover. There are more wires under this desk where the cpu sits then the fire hazard we used to call the Haigh family Christmas tree. The modem runs at 33.6 kbps (super lame). And when the phone rings here I get bumped off (Awesome). But it is free to all who stay here, for 5 euros that is. So, I will cease complaining and try to get caught backup.

The story left off in Burgos. I awoke very early Sunday morning, 092009, in Burgos to see the little old french lady stirring on the bottom bunk. About 30 minutes later I looked down again and she appeared to be falling back to sleep, she was all strectched out. I look down again about 20 minutes later and she had vanished. (I knew it, she was a ninja.) I never here saw her again.

The day was very grey and cloudy as we headed into the meseta which is sort of like cowboy farm country. (Badges, we don´t need no stinking badges. You could almost here the sound of a bull whip except there are no cows, just grain, sun flowers that have turned, and these tall flat mountians that dot the landscape. I was looking to stop in a pueblo called Rabe to make it a short day and get some extra rest. However, big problem as I cruised into Rabe after about 11 km I soon learned that all the albergues were closed due to a festival that was occurring that night. (What´s the festival ¨Happy Break Paul and Make Him Cry Day¨?) I was not a happy cowboy. Nothing left to do but climb the 950 km Mesta that lay before me and hope to get a spot in one of the albergues in Hornillos. The sky was still grey but the sun started to show a bit as I climbed the meseta and finally reached Hornillos. In Hornillos I meet Barabara again (one of my German friends), Dora from Hungary, Susana from Germany, and Bernard from France. Before dinner we drank some wine and waited for what appears to have been at least 2 hours to get served dinner. I went bed at 9:30 PM way too tired and hoping to catch a short day tomorrow.

Follow-up notes:

Ran in to someone who told me that the Japanese rocker dude does not even play the guitar. He is carrying as a gesture of solidarity for his friend a guitar player who is dying of cancer.

Also, I did meet Phillip the other German who is a 2 year medical student (anesthesia) in Burgos. Apparently, the little rocks in the Paella in Ages did not agree with him and he took illl and had to go to the hospital in Burgos. Apparently, he is better and is now continuing with the Camino.

I very much appreciate you reading the blog and posting comments. It means a lot to me.


Supplies:
16 pieces of Dentyne Ice -minty fresh breath for 112 miles so far.
still no oxicotin
23 pretzel sticks
0 bottle of vino tinto -they don´t seem to last that long. besides, way too heavy to carry.
1 topical antibiotic
0 tape
1 free orange
1 free banana